Ode to the sparkling Mediterranean
Sky blue swells at rocky coves
Beyond the lens of my goggles is a world of blue. I glide through schools of shimmering fish and, suspended in the sea, take in the way the sunrays shatter the surface.
Underwater at Cala Deià, the earth stops spinning– abrupt quiet. I could swim here for hours; the Mediterranean is so salty that it requires very little energy to remain buoyant.
While the cobblestone streets, terraced hillsides and thick foliage charm me endlessly, my heart is in the sea. I’d be lying if I didn’t admit that playing in the water and taking in its beauty is what I most looked forward to.
On sunny days, it sparkles. Sky blue and crystal clear.
When overcast, it reflects a deep emerald.
From cliffs above, it is indigo, like the vines of morning glories that climb through the village.
The waters are saturated with vibrant cardinalfish, groupers, octopus, and anemones, to name a few. Remarkable also is the sea moss, hard coral, rock formations and caves.
Minutes into a swim, you’ll find yourself surrounded by swarms of curious fish nibbling on your swimsuit, your toes, your hair. Dip your goggled head in for a closer look and they’ll scatter, pretending to be busy.
Cala Deià is a gem of the village. Sweat from the hike down is long forgotten as I immerse in a turquoise that cools my skin.
A couple of weeks back I met a new friend, Tatiana, on the trail. We decided to explore some smaller coves a bit past the cala, and found ourselves in a secluded, breathtaking area. Our swim was magical, aside from the jellyfish.
I stretched my snorkel over my head and hopped in eagerly. It was only after I’d swam out and stuck my head under that I realized we were completely surrounded by jellies.
I carefully beelined to a nearby rock, dodging pink tentacles all the way. Three stings later, I was safe on shore with a few battle scars.
Joanna, the ceramicist I work for, has called Mallorca home for over 40 years. She arrived on the island in her early 20s while working on a boat. Falling in love with the pristine water that hugs the jagged coast, she made her home here in Deià and hasn’t looked back.
Just like the rest of our planet’s nature, the Med needs protecting. Joanna has seen the island grow in popularity; with that comes tourism and trash. Driven by her love for the Balearic, she now creates murals advocating for a cleaner coast. Her painted tiles are plastered on rock walls near local beaches– a visual message on the importance of leaving no trace.
I recently ran into a couple of girls who are also doing a Workaway. Visiting from Romania, they’re working on a farm in the countryside of the island. Besides a few spots in Palma, they hadn’t yet explored many beaches
“NOW I feel like I’m in Mallorca,” one exclaimed when I brought them to Cala Deià. “These coves are what you come here for.”
While the white sands of Palma or Alcúdia are wonderful, there’s something sublime about the rawness of the island’s more remote coves. Visitors and locals alike hike winding trails, risk drop-off cliffs and scramble over brutal rocks in search of an idyllic spot to swim and sunbathe.
Clinging to sharp boulders and being bashed by waves as you climb back up from your swim– It’s humbling and oh, so fun.
In one such spot, the secret beach of Llucalcari, I even tanned nude!
Llucalcari juts out to the deep, open water, complete with a freshwater spring flowing straight into the sea. It’s also known for its nudity. I was unaware of this prior, but decided to embrace it. What an experience!
One of my absolute favorite coves thus far is Sa Foradada. About an hour-long hike from the top, many people choose to access this beach by water taxi. The location is also home to a renowned cliffside restaurant serving world class Paella.
The trek down leads to a picturesque cove tucked narrowly between cliffs. Tiny stone piers provide space to lay out and take in the layered view of the Tramuntana Mountains before diving in.
Last week, my friend Tristan and I went swimming at La Muleta, a spot on the coast between Deià and Soller.
Tristan and I met while he was playing a show at the town market. He taught me to use toothpaste on goggles to keep them from fogging up, and shows me sites I never would have known to look for. Perks of befriending locals!
At La Muleta, the sunset painted the sea gold. The orange orb sank lower as we swam, lighting the horizon on fire. I watched from below as golden-pink rays shot through the water like stars.
Daily dips in the saltwater have been good for my soul! I’m taking in all of the glass-clear swells and rich marine life that I can in my last days on this island.
With love from the Mediterranean!
From Gwen <3
our barton springs new year skinny dipped prepared you well for nude beach
these comments from your family about the nude bathing are sending me LOL