The fairytale that is Deià, Mallorca
Cobblestone culture
I stared into the passing dark from the window of my hour-long bus ride to the village, stress eating my airport baguette and praying that I was headed to the right place.
The moment I stepped into Deià, travel tension melted from me. The rumble of the bus depleted into the distance, leaving me in a warm, tranquil quiet. Cobblestone walls and street lights like honey surrounded me. Immediate peace; I was enchanted.
I’ve been in Spain now for three weeks. The tight-knit community of locals and deeply-rooted artist culture in this village tugs at my heartstrings daily.
Flourishing arts
Residents and visitors range from just about everywhere. One step into the town lends an ear to a rich myriad of accents, languages and cultures which undoubtedly contribute to the area’s bioluminescent creativity.
Live music frequently reverberates off the Tramuntana Mountains here, where a different concert can be heard almost nightly. Bands rocking bossa nova, hypnotic pop, soul, deep house DJ sets and more can be found at a local bar, art exhibition or hotel each evening.
Cafè and bar Sa Fonda is a hotspot in the heart of the village. Its vibrant history spans back to the 1950s, attracting famous bohemians of every kind throughout its years.
The lively spot hosts music on Monday and Wednesday nights this time of year, attracting young people from all over the island. Deià’s situation in a valley means that sound bounces from cobblestone walls– the concert will be just as loud in your bedroom, so you might as well go and join the party.
Throughout my first week here, I heard the bar’s frequent concerts and spirited chatter of people my age. Intimidated by the language barrier and strong local bonds, I enjoyed the function from the comfort of my balcony. Then I met Milena while in line at the supermarket.
Visiting from Germany, Milli was backpacking the island solo. The day after we met, we embarked on a strenuous hike in the next village over before heading back to Deià to enjoy dinner on the porch of her refugio.
We then headed to the middle of town to snack on wine and cheese before climbing Sa Fonda’s stone steps and dancing for hours– the language we all understand. After the DJ’s farewell, Milli and I made some friends, hopped in their trunk and headed to the nearby cove. We swam in the sea under the stars until wee hours of the morning.
Beyond its plethora of concerts, festivals celebrating art’s many forms occur in the area year-round. Here, locals and tourists gather for dancing, wine, food and the celebration of Majorquin culture.
This past week, I experienced Artdemossa– an annual arts festival in the nearby village Valldemossa. I reveled in colorful art galleries, live music, delicious wine and fluffy pastries. Lovers danced, mothers bounced children on their hips, friends rolled cigarettes and socialized on narrow streets.
A friend and I had caught the bus to Valldemossa in the early evening. Time danced on, and at some point I glanced down at my watch to realize that it was indeed 1:30am– the last return bus left at 10pm. When our attempts to bum a ride failed, we began walking back to Deià from Valldemossa.
While this was a totally unideal trek for two in the morning, the stars were absolutely surreal. We ate corn nuts and chatted our way through an hour of the walk before successfully hitchhiking with a driver headed our way.
As I approached my house around 3 a.m., I bumped into another friend, speaking in hushed tones on the street. Despite our best attempts to keep quiet, a shutter above us flung open, revealing the tousled outline of a woman pleading “"¡Cállate!"
Sounds of the village
The sounds of this space are vivid and bustling, yet quiet and calming. As I write now, jazz music, laughter and bits of conversation float into my bedroom window.
Deià is practically void of noise pollution. At home in Austin, Tx, each sound is muddled with the next. There, I may be able to differentiate the sound of a bus, a frat party or the neighbor's cat, but generally the city radiates indecipherable noise.
In the village, the sound of silverware and clinking glasses drifts from warmly lit windows of nearby restaurants. Enjoyable weather year-round means no air conditioning; open windows welcome fresh air and the sounds of life to flow through homes, cafes and shops.
I fall asleep to quiet street chatter, the humble motor of a car maneuvering the twisting streets, wind grazing the mountains and the mewing of alley cats.
I wake to the neighbor’s chickens and the morning doves. Both the Eurasian Collared-Dove’s coos and the bray of the town donkeys reverberate through trees and into bedroom windows all day long.
Less noise pollution doesn’t mean it isn’t noisy. Again, the acoustics here are astounding. That said, these sounds are different and entirely tangible. I’m practically eavesdropping on a romantic dinner, gossip session or tourist’s photo shoot as I do dishes at my kitchen window.
I have begun to explore other parts of Mallorca (Palma, Port Soller, Santa Ponsa, etc) on my days off. But with its crystal clear coves and idyllic views, where palm trees and mountains exist in harmony, none have compared to this village. The more I leave Deià, the more I love Deià.
With love from Deià!
From Gwen
I want to wash dishes there !
Keep writing , this is fantastic .
I love how you described the sights and sounds of this lovely town, I felt as if I was on this adventure right along with you.